MONEY&COSTS
Costs
Laos is an inexpensive country to visit by almost any standards. Not including transport, a budget of US$15 a day brings with it decent food and comfortable, but basic, accommodation. When you add air-con, hot water and falang (Western) food, costs are around US$20 to US$25 per day if you economise, and around US$75 for top-end hotels and food. Of course, you can spend even more if you stay in the best hotels and eat at the most expensive restaurants, although such a scenario exists only in Vientiane and Luang Prabang.
For those on a tight budget, in Vientiane or Luang Prabang you can squeeze by on about $10 a day if you stay in the cheapest guesthouses and eat local food; in remote areas where everything’s less expensive you can whittle this figure down to around US$7 or US$8 a day.
Add to these estimates the cost of transport, which varies considerably depending on how fast you’re moving. Flying with Lao Airlines costs from US$40 to US$100 per leg. Most bus trips cost between US$2 and US$.
All these costs are paid in a mix of US dollars, Thai baht and Lao kip. Credit cards and other bank cards aren’t widely accepted, so pack cash and travellers cheques.
Tipping
Tipping is not customary in Laos except in upmarket restaurants where 10% of the bill is appreciated – but only if a service charge hasn’t already been added.
Money
The official national currency in Laos is the Lao kip (LAK). Although only kip is legally negotiable in everyday transactions, in reality three currencies are used for commerce: kip, Thai baht (B) and US dollars (US$). In larger cities and towns, baht and US dollars are readily acceptable at most businesses, including hotels, restaurants and shops.
In smaller towns and villages, kip is usually preferred. The rule of thumb is that for everyday small purchases, prices are quoted in kip. More expensive goods and services (eg long-distance boat hire) may be quoted in baht or dollars, while anything costing US$100 or more (eg tours, long-term car hire) is quoted in US dollars.
Despite experiencing relative stability in recent years, the kip cannot yet call itself a stable currency. As such, prices in this guidebook are given in the US dollar equivalent.
The Lao kip is not convertible to any currency outside of the Lao PDR. Because of this, the only reliable sources of foreign exchange information are those inside the country.
HEALTH&SAFETY
Before you go
Pack medications in their original, clearly labelled, containers. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including generic names, is also a good idea. If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to have a physician’s letter documenting their medical necessity. If you have a heart condition bring a copy of your ECG taken just prior to travelling.
If you happen to take any regular medication, bring double your needs in case of loss or theft. In Laos it can be difficult to find some of the newer drugs, particularly the latest antidepressant drugs, blood pressure medications and contraceptive pills.
Vaccinations
The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever. Proof of vaccination will only be required if you have visited a country in the yellow-fever zone within the six days prior to entering Southeast Asia. If you are travelling to Southeast Asia from Africa or South America you should check to see if you require proof of vaccination.
Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your best source of information; they stock all available vaccines and will be able to give specific recommendations for you and your trip. The doctors will take into account factors such as past vaccination history, the length of your trip, activities you may be undertaking, and underlying medical conditions, such as pregnancy.
Most vaccines don’t produce immunity until at least two weeks after they’re given, so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before departure. Ask your doctor for an International Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise known as the yellow booklet), which will list all the vaccinations you’ve received. In the US, the yellow booklet is no longer issued, but it is highly unlikely the Lao authorities will ask for proof of vaccinations (unless you have recently been in a yellow-fever affected country).
Danger&Annoyance
Over the last 15 years or so Laos has earned a reputation among visitors as a remarkably safe place to travel, with little crime reported and few of the scams so often found in more touristed places such as Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. And while the vast majority of Laotians remain honest and welcoming, things aren’t quite as idyllic as they once were. The main change has been in the rise of petty crime, such as theft and low-level scams, which are more annoying than actually dangerous. That’s not to say Laos is danger free. However, most dangers are easy enough to avoid.
The Lao follow the usual Southeast Asian method of queuing for services, which is to say they don’t form a line at all but simply push en masse towards the point of distribution, whether at ticket counters, post-office windows or bus doors. It won’t help to get angry and shout ‘I was here first!’ since first-come, first-served simply isn’t the way things are done here. Rather it’s ‘first-seen, first-served’. Learn to play the game the Lao way, by pushing your money, passport, letters or whatever to the front of the crowd as best you can. Eventually you’ll get through
While Lao are generally trustworthy people and theft is much less common than elsewhere in Southeast Asia, it has risen in recent years. Most of the reports we’ve heard involve opportunistic acts that, if you are aware of them, are fairly easily avoided.
Money or goods going missing from hotel rooms is becoming more common, so don’t leave cash or other tempting items (such as women’s cosmetics) out on show. If you ride a crowded bus, watch your luggage and don’t keep money in your trouser pockets. If you ride a bicycle or motorcycle in Vientiane, don’t place anything of value in the basket – thieving duos on motorbikes have been known to ride by and snatch bags from baskets. Also in Vientiane, we’ve had several reports of (usually) women having daypacks stolen after they’ve changed money near the BCEL bank on the riverfront – be especially careful around here.
Other reports involve theft on buses between Vientiane and Luang Prabang, and on the slow boat between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang. Simple locks on your bags are usually enough to discourage the light-fingered.